Merlin and the Question of Why – A First Ascent Between Wind, Water and Vertical Rock

February 9, 2026 / Posted by Marmot Mountain Europe GmbH / Text: Philipp Hans / Photos: Philipp Hans

A wall that rises straight out of the sea. A boat rocking in restless swell. And a line that did not exist until now. Sailing Kooks is our new route on the wild northern coast of the Greek island of Amorgos. A first ascent that demanded everything from us and reminded us why we climb in the first place: for freedom, for adventure, and for the feeling of truly being outdoors. Here, Philipp Hans shares how they discovered this wall, equipped it and finally completed the first ascent, and why this place has not let him go since.

About the Route

Grade: 8b (7c mandatory)

Length: 250 m

Pitches: 9

Protection: Fully equipped with 10 mm titanium bolts; Maillon Rapide at every anchor for abseiling

First Ascent: October 2025 – Hans Brothers, Oberbach, Attenberger & Schüle

Recommended Gear (what we brought): 60 m single rope, 60 m rap line, 18 quickdraws, 1 set of Totem Cams

The project and how it felt personally

Night after night I researched, searching for the perfect wall. Steep, exposed, solid rock, and located in a wild, untouched environment. Those were the basic requirements. When I moved the cursor over the northeastern coastline of the island of Amorgos on the website Trip in View, it suddenly appeared. That was the wall I had been looking for.

My dream wall rises straight out of the water and shoots two hundred and fifty meters into the sky. The wall is part of a rugged massif that could easily be described as a small mountain range. A mountain range that had been considered completely unexplored until now.

And for good reason. The only access to this world of rock is by sea. Our route sits right on a headland where currents, unpredictable winds and waves collide. There is no protected anchorage, and you are exposed to whatever the ocean decides to give you. So why take all this on. Why climb there.

For me, the answer is simple. I am a person who loves freedom. And in both elements, on the rock and on the water, I feel that freedom the most. For me, the wall on Amorgos is the perfect meeting point of these two worlds. Nowhere else have I experienced them blending so directly. From our boat Merlin you step off only half a meter above the water and immediately find yourself in steep, absolutely perfect climbing. That is why the route is called Merlin and the Question of Why (original: Merlin und die Frage nach dem Warum).

We are still overwhelmed by how incredible this line turned out to be. It demands everything, yet gives so much in return. We want to share that feeling. So go for it, future repeaters. It will not be easy, that much we can promise. But what you will experience there is truly something special. We guarantee it.

For more information, have a look at Philipp’s website: https://www.hansbrueder.com/

Our Marmot Highlight Product

That was without a doubt the Guides Down Hoody.

When you think of Greece, you probably picture sunshine and warmth. And yes, that is true. But it depends very much on where you are. In our case, we spent many long and demanding days on our wall, often in the shade, often in strong winds and in the typical cold of a north facing side. In those moments, the Guides Down Hoody was our armor. It kept us warm when our energy dropped and made sure we were ready for every next move, every next decision and every new pitch.