The Magic of 8a: A Journey to 1000 Ascents

August 20, 2024 / Posted by Marmot Mountain Europe GmbH / Text and Photos: Steve McClure

The 8a climbing route

In the world of climbing, the grade 8a holds a certain mystique. It’s a number that signifies a big challenge and a boundary, that separates the dreamers from achievers. For many climbers, grades in the 7 are attainable but reaching for an 8a is a different story. It’s a milestone that embodies the pinnacle of climbing prowess, a dream realized only by a selected few.

Personal connection to the number 8

Long before I knew anything about climbing grades, the number eight was already my favourite number. It mirrors the infinity symbol – an endless loop with no beginning or end. This fascination only continued with the 8a route emerging as the cutting edge of climbing grades. In the 1980s, a time when sport climbing was making waves with its vibrant culture and challenging routes. Those days of pink Lycra tights, funky haircuts and red point styles were nothing short of revolutionary. The number 8a was etched into my memory as the epitome of climbing difficulty. Even today, I smile whenever I see “platform 8a” at a train station.

My climbing roots and first-time sports climbing

My journey began with traditional climbing. From as young as two years old, I was exploring cliffs and by ten I got my first trad gear. This was in the 1980s, before sports climbing had made its mark and well before the advent of 8a. Climbing for me was more about the experience – the friends – the adventure. The idea of clipping bolts on a route seemed so far removed from my reality.

That all changed when I turned 23. My first sports climbing experience was at Rubicon Wall in The Peak District in the UK, a place that seemed a world away from Sheffield, where I lived at the time. The white walls dotted with chalk and bolts were both intimidating and exhilarating. Although I was there for trad climbing, as usual, I was offered a chance to try the famous route “Let the Tribes Increase” graded F7c+ at the time. A young guy there handed me his rope, and I didn’t even know how what to do when it came to sports climbing.

I just went ahead and gave it my best shot. To my surprise, hanging from the first bolt, I began to see holds I hadn't noticed before. This new perspective allowed me to isolate the optimal footholds and grips and before long, I had successfully red-pointed my first real route. The experience was transformative, opening my eyes to the potential of sport climbing.

It was absorbing, distilling the climbing down into individual movement unclouded by fear. Within an hour I was good to go and the redpoint sent the first shot. I was buzzing, with my head full of moves and positions heightened by the physical pleasure of moving at my limit. But I remember clearly it wasn’t the limit; I’d climbed it with more in the tank, another grade within reach! 8a had always been for the magazine stars only, something I didn’t even dream of; it didn’t even register as possible. Like reading about an astronaut landing on the moon; it was something so incredible that I just couldn’t imagine ever doing it. Suddenly it wasn’t just possible, it was certain, it was nothing more but a matter of time!

Breaking Through the Barrier

My first grade 8 ascent was "Zeke the Freak," an 8b at Rubicon Wall. That was in 1995, and it marked the beginning of a new era in my climbing career. Understanding the nuances of redpointing and realizing that my determination could push me through seemingly impossible moves was a game-changer. Within a year, I had climbed 8c+, and a few years later, I had ascended to 9a+.

I kept a diary of my climbing, and of every route graded 8a and above. These books are like a record of my life, my accomplishes and my hopes and dreams becoming reality. They are a testament to my life's journey, capturing my aspirations become reality. The number 8a became a symbol of significant achievement, a milestone that required dedication, motivation, skill, and strength. It’s amazing how the number 8 can be so important. I think it’s just the way it happened, after 7c+ it goes to 8a on the arbitrary made-up grading scale where the change of a number somehow means everything. A made-up scale it may be, but it just so happens the transition between 7 and 8 is absolutely at the right place. Maybe it could have been up or down a little, but 8a is proper hard. To climb one is a real achievement. While today's social media might make 8a seem like a warm-up for some, it remains a monumental feat for most climbers.

Celebrating the 1000th Ascent

Reaching 1000 routes graded 8a and above was never an explicit goal of mine. It was only as I approached the 900 marks that I realized the milestone was within reach. While climbers like Dani Andrada and Adam Ondra have achieved staggering and impressive numbers for beyond mine, my 1000 ascents reflect my personal journey of a balanced approach to climbing, encompassing sport, trad, DWS, bouldering, and big walls. This diversity, I believe, is a hallmark of British climbing and something I take great pride in.

As 2023 ended, I found myself nearing my 1000th 8a. When friends asked about my plans for this milestone, I hadn't given it much thought. But that seemed a bit lame, like the guys who get asked what they will do for their 50th birthday and reply ‘I’m just going to stop in and have a pizza, no big deal’. I considered making it a big number; a 9a somewhere would be awesome. But the perfect route soon became clear. Back to Rubicon, back to the beginning: "Let The Tribes Increase," now upgraded to 8a after some holds broke off. It was poetic, returning to the same route that marked my first sport climbing experience.

On the day of the climb, the conditions were perfect and by a stroke of luck, my old friend Mike, who had belayed me on that first ascent, was in town. Walking to the crag, we reminisced about the past, and it felt like a story too good to be true. The climb itself was a nostalgic challenge, and although I fell on the final move during my retro-flash attempt, I was elated. I got it on my second go, just like before. Number 1000 wasn't just about the climb; it was about the journey, the people, the places, and the pure joy of climbing.

The True Magic of Climbing

Reaching 1000 routes graded 8a and above is a significant achievement, but the real magic lies in the experiences and memories created along the way. A special day, one of my best, the 999 routes before simply highlight the journey to that point, a chance and opportunity to look back and be thankful for somehow finding myself in this incredible sport of rock climbing.

Climbing has given me so much—friendships, adventures, and a profound connection to nature. As I look back on my journey, I'm filled with gratitude for the incredible sport that is rock climbing. Here's to the next chapter and the many more climbs to come.

You can watch Steve’s 1000th climb on the BMC TV channel on Youtube:www.youtube.com/watch?v=ph2vCWrTX-Q/